Report on Alim Knit BD Ltd

INTRODUCTION

 Textile and garments sector is the biggest and fastest growing sector in Bangladesh. It is also the highest foreign currency earning sector in Bangladesh. Among this sector, Knit garment is growing very rapidly due to smaller investment requirement, greater backward linkage facility & higher profit than woven garments. That’s why export of knit garments is increasing steadily for last few years and up to now.

Textile education can’t be completed without industrial training. Because this industrial training minimizes the gap between theoretical and practical knowledge and make us accustomed to industrial environment. I got an opportunity to complete two-months long industrial training at Mondol Knit Tex Ltd. a sister concern of Mondol Group, which is a 100% export-oriented composite Knit Dyeing Industry. It has well planned & equipped fabric dyeing-finishing and garments units in addition to facilitate knitting and knitwear manufacturing.

Name                                                  :           Mondol Knit Tex Ltd.

Type                                                    :           100% Export Oriented Knit Dyeing Industry.

Year of establishment                         :           1996

Investor                                               :           Mr. Haji Abdul Majid Mondol

Location                                              :           Nayapara, Kashimpur, Gazipur.

Project cost                                         :           Over Tk 200, 00,000,000

Annual turnover                                  :          Tk 10, 00, 00,000 to 12, 00, 00,000

Production capacity                            :          Dyeing: 10 ton/day (Average)

                                                                       Sewing: 100000 pcs/day (Average)

Main Production                                 :           Basic T-Shirt, Tank top, Long Sleeve,

T-Shirt, Polo Shirt, Shorts, Pajama, Set, Ladies, Vest, Rugby shirt, Hood jacket, Trouser, Girls Fancy, Long Pant, Night Gown, Kids Knitwear& all kinds of knit garments & Knit dyeing fabrics.

History of the project development

After successful operation in Mon Tex Knit Composite Limited, the owner had decided to start a fully information & technology based along with the social accountability and quality controlled modern ready made composite knit garments industry in large scale. In this connection Mr. Haji Abdul Majid Mondol had decided in a resolution to start a company in  Nayapara, Kashimpur, Gazipur in the year 1996 to manufacture knitwear garments for the international market. Right from inception the policy of the company has been to provide total customer satisfaction by offering quality knitwear in time. To meet the commitments of quality and prompt delivery, Mon Tex Knit Composite Limited Decided to integrate the manufacturing process in a planned manner. Over the years the entire process has been integrated by importing sophisticated machinery from world-renowned manufacturers.

Working on new concepts in styling & content of the knitwear is a continuous activity in Mon Tex Knit Composite Limited with an objective to up the quality and the value of merchandise. In 1996, the year in which International business was started; Mondol  Knit Tex Ltd. concentrated all its strengths and resources in developing a wide range of knitwear for the international market.

 Vision & mission of the project

The mission and vision of Mondol Knit Tex Ltd. is to manufacture and deliver high quality readymade garments (RMG) to its customers. The core objective is to attain and enhance customer satisfaction by providing on time delivery of desired quality readymade garments and also to increase efficiency of workforce.

 To attain these objectives, the management of Mondol knit Tex Ltd has decided to adopt the following-

1. To increase awareness regarding customers requirements throughout the organization.
2. By providing training to develop efficiency of the employee.
3. To collect customer’s feedback regularly to know about their conception about their company and to take timely appropriate action.
4. Within the organization.

Management system:

• Intercom telephone
• Fax
• E-mail
• Written letters
• Oral

Duties & Responsibilities of Production Officer:

1. To collect the necessary information and instruction from the previous shift for the smooth running of the section.
2. To make the junior officer understand how to operate the whole production process.
3. To match production sample with target shade.
4. To collect the production sample lot sample matching next production.
5. To observe dyed fabric during finishing running and also after finishing process.
6. To identify disputed fabrics and report to PM/GM for necessary action.
7. To discuss with PM about overall production if necessary.
8. To sign the store requisition and delivery challan in the absence of PM
9. To execute the overall floor work.
10. To maintain loading/ unloading paper.
11. Any other assignment given by the authority.

Duties & Responsibilities of Senior Production Officer:

1. Overall supervision of dyeing and finishing section.
2. Batch preparation and pH check.
3. Dyes and chemicals requisition issue and check.
4. Write loading / unloading time from machine.
5. Program making, sample checking, color measurement.
6. Control the supervisor, operator, asst. operator and helper of dyeing machine.
7. Any other work as and when required

Duties & Responsibilities of DGM (Production):

 1.  Overall supervision of dyeing and finishing section.

2.  Check the sensitive parameters of different machines for smooth dyeing.

3.  Check the different log books  and report to management.

4.  Check the plan to control the best output.

5.  To trained and motive the subordinates how to improve the quality production.

6.  Control the supervisor, operator, asst. operator and helper of dyeing  m/c. 7.  Maintenance the machinery and equipments.

8.  Any other work as and when required.

KNITTING:

 Knitting is the method of making fabric by transforming continuous strands of yarn into a series of interloping loops, each row of such loops forms the one immediately preceding it.

Flow chart of knitting Section:

Yarn in cone form

Feeding the yarn cone in the creel

Feeding the yarn in the feeder via trip-tape positive feeding arrangement and         Tension device.

Knitting

Withdraw the rolled fabric and weighting

Inspection

Numbering

Raw material: Raw material is a unique substance in any production oriented textile industry. It plays a vital role in continuous production and for high quality fabric.

 Types of raw material:

            1.         Yarn

            2.         Fabric

            3.         Dye stuff

            4.         Chemical and auxiliaries

Name and source:

Yarn:

         The raw material (cotton yarn) used in Knitting are collect from various Spinning mill. They buy carded and also combed yarn according to their buyer requirement. The yarn count range vary for carded yarn from(34/1) to (7/1) Ne. The yarn count range vary for combed yarn from(40/1) to (20/1) Ne.

Sources of cotton yarn:

 Aman Spinning.

 NZ Spinning.

Thermax.

Mellange:

Mellange is produced by blending different amount of top dyed fibre with grey fibre. Different types of mellange used in knitting are:

Mellange

White/Ecru mellange                      Grey mellange                          Anthra mellange

(dyed fibre 0.2-2%)                     (dyed fibre 2-15%)                 (dyed fibre 15-30%)

Sources of mellange:

Patartoli

Prime

Shohag pur

Thermax

Sources of polyester:

Kader Synthetic.

China.

Count: 20den, 40den, 75den, 100den, 150den.

Sources of Lycra:

 * Brand     : Roica

   Country   : Taiwan.

 * Brand     : Texlon

   Country   : Korea.

 *Brand      : Acelen

   Country:  China

 *Brand     : Creora

   Country: Japan

 *Brand     : Lioli (In Viyellatex used mostly)

   Country: China

Count: 20 den, 40 den, 70 den.

Price list of different types of yarn:

Cotton:

 Polyester Yarn:

           Kader Synthetic – 2.40 $/Kg

           China                – 1.60 $/Kg

Lycra Yarn:

           20 den – 12.70 $/Kg

           40 den – 8.40 $/Kg

           70 den – 7.50 $/Kg

Key Accessories for knitting:

Key Accessories used for circular knitting fabric process which are:

  Cylinder

  CAM

  Needle

  Sinker

  Positive feed system

  Motor

  Inventor

  Belt

  VDQ quality pulley

  Pattern wheel

PARTS OF KNITTING MACHINE

Creel: Creel is used to place the cone.

Feeder: Feeder is used to feed the yarn.

Tensioning device: Tensioning device is used to give proper tension to the yarn.

VDQ pulley: VDQ pulley is used to control the GSM by controlling the stitch length.

Guide: Guide is used to guide the yarn.

Sensor: Sensor is used to seen & the machine stops when any problem occurs.

Spreader: Spreader is used to spread the knitted fabric before take up roller.

Take up roller: Take up roller is used to take up the fabric

Fixation feeder: These types of feeder are used in Electrical Auto Striper Knitting Machine to feed the yarn at specific finger.

Rethom: These devise are used in Electrical Auto Striper Knitting machine

Machine Description of Knitting Section:

Knitting Machine:

 End products of Circular Knitting Machine:

Single Jersey M/C:

• S/J  Plain
• Single Lacoste
• Double Lacoste
• Single pique
• Double pique
• Terry

Interlock M/C:

            a)  Interlock pique

            b)  Eyelet fabric

            c)  Mash fabric

Rib M/C:

            a)   1*1 Rib fabric

            b)   2*2 Rib  fabric

End products of Flat Bed Knitting Machine:

            a)   Collar.

            b)   Cuff.

Considerable points to produce knitted fabrics:

When a buyer orders for fabric then they mention some points related to production and quality. Before production of knitted fabric, these factors are needed to consider. Those are as follows-

        –   Type of Fabric or design of Fabric.

        –   Finished G.S.M.

        –   Yarn count

        –   Types of yarn (combed or carded)

        –   Diameter of the fabric.

        –   Stitch length

        –   Color depth.

Methods of increasing production:

By the following methods the production of knitted fabric can be increased –

A.        By increasing m/c speed:

Higher the m/c speed faster the movement of needle and ultimately production will be increased but it has to make sure that excess tension is not imposed on yarn because of this high speed.

B.        By increasing the number of feeder:

If the number of feeder is increased in the circumference of cylinder, then the number of courses will be increased in one revolution at a time.

C.        By using machine of higher gauge:

The more the machine gauge, the more the production is. So by using machine of higher gauge production can be increased.

D.        By imposing other developments:

            a) Using creel-feeding system.

b) Applying yarn supply through plastic tube that eliminates the possibilities of yarn damage.

c) Using yarn feed control device.

d) Using auto lint removal.

Production calculation:

A.        Production/shift in kg at 100% efficiency:

B.                    Production/shift in meter:

 C. Fabric width in meter:

Raw materials for knitting:

 Some points are needed to maintain for high quality fabric:

            a)    Brought good quality yarn.

            b)   Machines are oiled and greased accordingly.

            c)   G.S.M, Stitch length, Tensions are controlled accurately.

            d)   Machines are cleaned every shift and servicing is done after a month.

            e)   Grey Fabrics are checked by 4 point grading system

Changing of GSM:

      Major control by VDQ pulley.

      Minor control by stitch length adjustment.

      Altering the position of the tension pulley changes the G.S.M. of the fabric. If pulley moves towards the positive direction then the G.S.M. is decrease. And in the reverse direction G.S.M will increase.

Other m/c in Knitting Section:

1. Gray Inspection M/c, Brand : Uzu fabric inspection machine
2. Electric Balance for Fabric Weight.
3. Electric Balance for GSM check.
4. Compressor 2 pieces

 Production Parameter:

  Machine Diameter;

  Machine rpm (revolution per minute);

  No. of feeds or feeders in use;

  Machine Gauge;

  Count of yarn;

  Required time (M/C running time);

  Machine running efficiency.

Relationship between knitting parameter:

1.  Stitch length increase with decrease of GSM.

2. If stitch length increase then fabric width increase and Wales per inch decrease.

 3.  If machine gauge increase then fabric width decrease.

 4.  If yarn count increase (courser) then fabric width increase.

5.  If shrinkage increases then fabric width decrease but GSM and Wales   per       inch increase.

 6.   For finer gauge, finer count yarn should use.

Considerable points to produce knitted fabrics:

 When a buyer orders for fabric then they mention some points related to production and quality. Before production of knitted fabric, these factors are needed to consider.

Those are as follows-

  Type of Fabric or design of Fabric.

  Finished G.S.M.

  Yarn count

  Types of yarn (combed or carded)

  Diameter of the fabric.

  Stitch length

  Color depth.

Effect of stitch length on color depth:

If the depth of color of the fabric is high loop length should be higher because in case of fabric with higher loop length is less compact. In dark shade dye take up% is high so GSM is adjusted then. Similarly in case of light shade loop length should be relatively smaller

Factors that should be change in case of fabric design on quality change:

 Cam setting

Set of needle

 Size of loop shape

Faults & their causes in Knitting:

 1.  Hole Mark

          Causes:

  Holes are the results of yarn breakage or yarn cracks.

  During loop formation the yarn breaks in the rejoin of the needle hook.

  If the yarn count is not correct on regarding structure, gauge, course and density.

  Badly knot or splicing.

  Yarn feeder badly set.

Remedies:

  Yarn strength must be sufficient to withstand the stretch as well as uniform.

  Use proper count of yarn.

  Correctly set of yarn feeder.

  Knot should be given properly.

2.  Needle Mark

    Causes:

  When a needle breaks down then needle mark comes along the fabrics.

  If a needle or needle hook is slightly bends then needle mark comes on the fabrics.

    Remedies:

  Needle should be straight as well as from broken latch.

3. Sinker Mark

    Causes:

  When sinker corrode due to abrasion then some times can not hold a new loop as a result sinker mark comes.

  If sinker head bend then sinker mark comes.

    Remedies:

  Sinker should be changed.

4.  Star Mark

     Causes:

  Yarn tension variation during production.

  Buckling of the needle latch.

  Low G.S.M fabric production.

 Remedies:

  Maintain same Yarn tension during production.

  Use good conditioned needles.

5.  Drop Stitches

     Causes:

  Defective needle.

  If yarn is not properly fed during loop formation i.e. not properly laid on to the needle hook.

  Take-down mechanism too loose.

  Insufficient yarn tension.

  Badly set yarn feeder.

Remedies:

  Needle should be straight & well.

  Proper feeding of yarn during loop formation.

  Correct take up of the fabric & correct fabric tension.

  Yarn tension should be properly.

6. Oil stain

Causes:

  When oil lick through the needle trick then it pass on the fabrics and make a line.

 Remedies:

  Ensure that oil does not pass on the fabrics.

  Well maintenance as well as proper oiling.

7.  Rust stain

     Causes:

  If any rust on the machine parts.

Remedies:

  If any rust on the machine parts then clean it.

  Proper maintenance as well as proper oiling.

8.  Pin hole

Causes:

  Due to break down or bend of the latch, pin hole may come in the fabric.

Remedies:

  Change the needle.

 9.  Grease stain

Causes:

  Improper greasing

  Excess greasing

Remedies:

  Proper greasing as well as proper maintenance.

10. Cloth fall- out

 Causes:

Cloth fall- out can occur after a drop stitch especially when an empty needle with an empty needle with closed latch runs into the yarn feeder and remove the yarn out of the hook of the following  needles.

Remedies:

  Make sure all the latches of needle are closed with feeding yarn after a drop stitch.

11 . Barre:

     A fault in weft knitted fabric appearing as light or dark course wise (width  wise) stripe(s).

     Causes:

  This fault comes from yarn fault.

  If different micro near value of fiber content in yarn.

  Different lusture, dye affinity of fiber content in yarn.

  During spinning different similar classes of fiber is mixed specially in carded yarn & these fibers have similar characteristics.

  In draw fame different similar classes sliver is mixed and make one sliver.

 Remedies:

We can use this fabric in white color.

12. Fly:

       Causes:

  In knitting section too much lint is flying to and fro that are created from yarn due to low twist as well as yarn friction. This lint may adhere or attaches to the fabric surface tightly during knit fabric production.

      Remedies:

  Blowing air for cleaning and different parts after a certain period of time.

  By cleaning the floor continuously.

  By using ducting system for cleaning too much lint in the floor.

  Over all ensure that lint does not attach to the fabric.

13. Yarn contamination

      Causes:

  If yarn contains foreign fiber then it remains in the fabric even after finishing,

  If lot, count mixing occurs.

      Remedies:

  By avoiding lot, count mixing.

  Fault less spinning.

14. Yarn Faults:

 Naps.

  Slubs.

  Yarn count.

  Thick/Thin place in yarn.

  Hairiness.

Batching:

Batching is the process to get ready the fabrics which should be dyed and processed for a particular lot of a particular order.

 Batch process follow-up:

Grey fabric inspection

Function or Purpose of Batch Section:

–          To receive the grey fabric roll from knitting section or other source.

–          Turn the grey fabric if require.

–          To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following criteria –

• Order sheet (Received from buyer)
• Dyeing shade (color or white, light or dark)
• M/C capacity
• M/C available
• Type of fabrics(100% cotton, PE, PC, CVC)
• Emergency

–          To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card.

–          To keep records for every previous dyeing.

 Proper batching criteria:

–          To use maximum capacity of existing dyeing m/c.

–          To minimize the washing time or preparation time & m/c stoppage time.

–          To keep the no. of batch as less as possible for same shade.

–          To use a particular m/c for dyeing same shade.

Batch management:

Primarily batching is done by dyeing manager taking the above criteria under consideration. Batch section in charge receives this primary batch plan from dyeing manager. Some time planning is adjusted according to m/c condition or emergency.

Type of Batch:

              01). Solid Batch                                           02). Ratio Batch

Solid Batch: In solid batch all sample are same size, same diameter, same GSM, same fabric. For example; GSM is 160, diameter is 60”, and fabric type is single jersey.

Ratio Batch: In solid batch sample are different size, different diameter, different GSM, different fabric. For example; GSM are 160; 180; 200; diameter are 45”; 50”; 56”; 60”, fabric type is single jersey; (1*1) rib; (2*2) rib; (1*1) interlock, color size are (38*9; 40*9; 42*9; 45*9), cuff size are (38*3; 39*3; 40*3; 42.5*3).

Considerable point: Batch selection depends on Fabric GSM.

Machines in batch section

M/c quantity: 02

M/c Specification:

Machine Name                                             : Air turning m/c

M/c No                                                            : 01

Brand Name                                                    : Taida

Origin                                                             : China

M/c Speed                                                       : 300-500m/min

Model                                                              : DF 200

Max up clothing                                              : 150 kg

Company                                                         :Shandong Taida Dyeing & Finishing

                                                                        Machinery Co.Ltd

Machine Name                                             : Air turning m/c

M/c No                                                             : 02

Brand Name                                                    : Taida

Origin                                                             : China

M/c Speed                                                       : 300-500m/min

Model                                                              : DF 200

Max  up clothing                                             : 150 kg

Company                                                         :Shandong Taida Dyeing & Finishing

                                                                         Machinery Co.Ltd.

Fabrics Faults Identification:

# Hole Mark  

     Causes:

  Holes are the results of yarn breakage or yarn cracks.

  During loop formation the yarn breaks in the rejoin of the needle hook.

  Badly knot or splicing.

  Yarn feeder badly set.

     Remedies:

  Yarn strength must be sufficient to withstand the stretch as well as uniform.

  Use proper count of yarn.

Needle Mark

    Causes:

  When a needle breaks down then needle mark comes along the fabrics.

  If a needle or needle hook is slightly bends then needle mark comes on the fabrics.

    Remedies:

  Needle should be straight as well as from broken latch.

 Sinker Mark

    Causes:

  When sinker corrode due to abrasion then some times can not hold a new loop as a result sinker mark comes.

  If sinker head bend then sinker mark comes.

    Remedies:

  Sinker should be changed.

 Star Mark

     Causes:

  Yarn tension variation during production.

  Low G.S.M fabric production.

     Remedies:

  Maintain same Yarn tension during production.

  Use good conditioned needles.

 Drop Stitches

     Causes:

  Defective needle.

  If yarn is not properly fed during loop formation i.e. not properly laid on to the needle hook.

  Take-down mechanism too loose.

Remedies:

  Needle should be straight & well.

  Proper feeding of yarn during loop formation.

Lab Organ gram:

     Manager

Assistant manager

Lab dip: Lab dip is a process by which buyers supplied swatch is matched with the varying dyes percentage in the laboratory with or without help of “DATA COLOR”

Lab dip plays an important role in shade matching & and detaching the characteristics of the dyes and chemicals are to be used in the large scale of production so this is an important task before bulk production.

Lab Dip Procedure:

Lab dip receive

Input id number entry

By reffference←Recipe making→ from data color

Recipe calculation

       Prepating

Fabric weighting & fabric input

Fabric input into dye bath for dyeing

      Unloading

    Cold wash

    Hot wash→ with chemical

    Hot wash→ normal water

  Acid wash→ normal water

        Dryer

        Ironing

Shade matching

   Shade ok

Lab dip cutting

Submit to buyer

Buyer approval

Available Stock Solutions:

• Red – 0.1%, 0.5%, 1.0%, 2.0% (very common)
• Yellow – 0.1%, 0.5%, 1.0%, 2.0% (very common)
• Blue – 0.1%, 0.5%, 1.0%, 2.0% (very common).

Preparation:

–          To prepare 0.1% Stock solution, it is necessary to mix 0.1 g dye and 100 cc water.

–          To prepare 0.5% Stock solution, 0.5 g dye stuff is mixed with 100 cc water.

–          To prepare 1.0% & 2.0% Stock solution similar procedure is followed.

–          To prepare 10% Stock solution of Soda ash, 10 g Soda is mixed with 100 cc water.

 Depth of shade:

Mon Tex Knit Composite Ltd. produces 0.5% to 5% shade for the goods.

Calculation:

Usually following calculations are followed –

 Recipe % * Sample Weight

** Dye Solution =    (cc).

 Stock solution %

Recipe % * Liquor)

** Salt             =    (gram per liter, gpl).

  1000

Recipe % * 100 * Liquor)

** Soda Solution = (cc).

(1000 * Stock solution %)

Sample calculation for 0.5%  shade

              Sample wt. = 5 mg

              Material liquor ratio = 1: 10

              Total liquor  (5  10) = 50 cc

                                                     5  0.5%

              Dye solution  required     = ­­­­­­­­­­——————-  =  2.5  cc

                                                                  1 %

                                                                     50  25

              Salt  solution  required     = ­­­­­­­­­­——————-  =  6.25  cc

                                                                    20  10

                                                                          50  10

              Soda ash  solution  required  = ­­­­­­­­­­——————-  =  2.5  cc

                                                                          20  10

              Water required {50  – (2.5 + 6.25 + 2.5)} =  38.75 cc

Working Procedure

All ingredients had been taken according to the recipe into the pot of sample dyeing machine. At a room temp the material had run then after 10 minutes started to rise the temperature at 1°C/ min. to get 60°C temperature. For performing the required dyeing temperature it took 30 minutes. The material had dyed at 60°C for 45 minutes. Then the temperature was reduced at room temperature within in 10 minutes. The fabric washed in cold water & then   the material was washed in 1 gm/l soap solution (liquor ratio 1:20) at 90°C temperature for 15 minutes. Then after rapidly cold washing the material was dried & preserved.

And then check the shade match with the required sample by the lighting box.

List of Machine in Lab section:

 Specification of the lab m/c:

1. Machine Type:   Pilling m/c

    Brand:                Paramount

    Manufacturer:    China

2. Machine Type:      Wash fastness Machine

    Brand:                   Starlet

    Manufacturer:       Korea

3. Machine Type:     Spectra Photo meter

    Brand:                  Data Color

    Manufacturer:      U. S. A

Light Source:

● D- 65(Artificial day light)

●UV- Ultra- violet

●TL- 83 TL- 84

●F- Florescent

4. Machine Type:        Washing Machine

     Manufacturer:        U S A

5. Machine Type:        Dryer m/c

    Brand:                     Vrivide

    Manufacturer:         England

6. Machine Type:        Weight Balance Mc

    Brand:                     Adventurer

    Manufacturer:         Taiwan

7. Machine Type:        Lab Dyeing Machine

    Brand:                     Staelet

    Manufacturer:         U. S. A

Instrumental Color matching Process:

Spectrophotometer flow Chart:

Functions of spectrophotometer:

1. Color difference

2. Metamerism

3. Pass/fail operation

4. Fastness rating

5. Shade library

6. Cost comparison

7. Color match production

8. Reflectance curve.

 Color fastness to rubbing (Crocking):

Test name: BS1006 (ISO*12)

Pressure: 9 Newton (400 p/cm²)

Procedure:

1)      Attach dry running cloth in position over the end of the finger of the testing device; lower the finger onto the surface of the fabric.

2)      By turning the handle, rub the finger to and fro in a straight line along the specimen ten times in total, at a speed of approximately one complete to and fro rub per second.

3)      Asses the level of staining of the cotton lawn using the light grey scale AO3 under artificial day light

Grade=4 is acceptable range.

Wet Rubbing:

1)Wet out the cotton lawn fabric with distilled water squeeze thoroughly and check the weight.Weight condition wt=2*dry condition wt

2)      Attach the dry rubbing cloth in position over the end of the finer of the testing device lower the finger onto the surface of the fabric.

3)      By turning the handle, rub the finger to and fro in a straight line a long the specimen ten times in total, as a sped of approximately one complete to an fro run per second.

4)      Access the level of staining of the cotton lawn using the light grey scale AO3 under artificial day light.

Grade= 3 is acceptable range

Color fastness to cold water:

Test name: AATCC 107

Procedure:

1)      Cut fanric and multifinre strip to 100*40 m(4 cms). Overlock right sides together. Ensure all color are included.

2)      Place fabric test in distilled water and make sure that ther are thoroughly wer and that there are no air bubbles.

3)      Place fabric between glass plates and soak for 15 min.

4)      Pour off excess water without squeezing or disturbing glass.

5)      Place test in incubator for 8 hours at 37^oc±2^oc under a pressure of 12.5 kpa(5kp/40cm²).

6)      Remove test from incubator, open fabric and flat.

7)      Assess the change in shade of fabric and the staining of the multifibre strip using light grey scales BS1066 AO2 and AO3.

Color change                               Grade: 4-5

Checking                                       Grade: 4

 Staining or multifibre               Grade: 3-4

                        Grade: 4-5(for contrast color)

                        Grade: 4(for all color)

                       Grade: 3-4(for DK. Solid color & T/C)

Color fastness to washing:

Test name: BS1006

Procedure:

1)      Cut fabric into 100*40 m(4 cms) strips attach to a piece of multifibre strip the same width and attach along short edge. Make sure all colors are included.

2)      Dissolves 4 gms of ECE detergent and 1 gm of sodium per-borate in one liter of distilled water which has been preheated to the required temp of 50^oc±2^oc.

3)      Place test pots with the appropriate volume of test solution to give a 50:1 liquor ratio.

4)       Scale pots and rotate than for the specified time.

5)      When test time is completed, remove the pots from the machine.

6)      Remove test pieces from the pots and rinse thoroughly in distilled water, followed by a 10 min rinse in cold running tap water.

7)      Squeeze off excess water open out and put on rack to dry.

8)       Asses the staining on the multifibre strip using light grey scale BS1006 AO2 and AO3 under artificial daylight D65.

toA1S40150NoneNone3010^*Not adjustedA1M40150NoneNone4510Not adjustedA2S40150None13010^*Not adjustedB1S50150NoneNone3025^*10.5±0.1B1M50150NoneNone455010.5±0.1B2S50150None13025^*10.5±0.1C1S6050NoneNone302510.5±0.1C1M6050NoneNone455010.5±0.1C2S6050None1302510.5±0.1D1S7050NoneNone302510.5±0.1D1M7050NoneNone4510010.5±0.1D2S7050None1302510.5±0.1D3S70500.015None302510.5±0.1D3M70500.015None4510010.5±0.1E1S9550NoneNone302510.5±0.1E2S9550None1302510.5±0.1

# For delicate fabrics and articles of wool or silk or blends containing these fires, steel balls are not used in the test.

Color fastness to washing:

Test name: AATCCyA*^oC AATCC 61yA

Procedure:

1)      Place test specimen with adjacent fabric in a steel beaker (1250 ml volume) with detergent solution (g/l AATCC standard WOB 1993, without fluorescent brightener) for 45 min under the condition in following table n the launder ometer.

(Art.10A:11*5cm)15*5 cm (Art. 10:6*5 cm),

(Art.10A:11*5cm)15*5 cm (Art. 10:6*5 cm),

(Art.10A:11*5cm)15*5 cm (Art. 10:6*5 cm),

(Art.10A:11*5cm)15*5 cm (Art. 10:6*5 cm),

(Art.10A:11*5cm)Temperature40^oc49^oc71^oc71^oc49^ocDetergent3.7 g/l1.5 g/l1.5 g/l1.5 g/l1.5 g/lLiquor200ml150ml50ml50ml50mlBeaker vol^m550ml1250ml1250ml1250ml1250mlAvailable cl   150mg/l270mg/lp^H 9.79.79.79.7Steel balls1050505050

Color fastness to cold water:

Test name: BS1006E01

Procedure:

1)      Cut fanric and multifinre strip to 100*40 m(4 cms). Overlock right sides together. Ensure all color are included.

2)      Place fabric test in distilled water and make sure that there are thoroughly wet and that there are no air bubbles.

3)      Place fabric between glass plates and soak for 15 min.

4)      Pour off excess water without squeezing or disturbing glass.

5)      Place test in incubator for 8 hours at 37^oc±2^oc under a pressure of 12.5 kpa(5kp/40cm²).

6)      Remove test from incubator, open fabric and flat.

7)      Assess the change in shade of fabric and the staining of the multifibre strip using light grey scales BS1066 AO2 and AO3.

Perspiration Test:

Test name: ISO E04

Alkaline condition

Recipe:

• L-histadine monohydrochloride monohydrate =0.50 g/l
• sodium chloride= 5.00g/l
• Sodium hydrogen phosphate dehydrate=2.50 g/l
• Adjust p^H(by caustic soda)= 8

Procedure:

1)      Wet out test specimen and adjacent fabrics thoroughly in an alkaline perspiration solution in room temperature and liquor ratio 50:01 and leave for 30 min.

2)      Pour off excess solution without squeezing. Place test specimen between 2 glass plate or acrylic plastic plates.

3)      Place test specimen between 2 glass plates or acrylic plastic plates.

4)      Place test in incubator for 4 hors at 37^oc±2^oc under a pressure of 12.5 kpa (5kp/40cm²).

5)      Remove test from incubator hang to dry in warm air at maximum temperature at 60^oc.

6)      Assess the change in shade of fabric of the staining of the multifabric strip using light gray scales BS1066 AO2 & AO3

Perspiration Test:

Test name: ISO E04

Acidic  condition

 Recipe:

• L-histadine monohydrochloride monohydrate =0.50 g/l
• sodium chloride= 5.00g/l
• Sodium hydrogen ortho-phosphate dihydrate=2.50 g/l
• Adjust p^H= 5.5

Procedure:

a)      Wet out test specimen and adjacent fabrics thoroughly in an alkaline perspiration solution in room temperature and liquor ratio 50:01 and leave for 30 min.

b)      Pour off excess solution without squeezing. Place test specimen between 2 glass plate or acrylic plastic plates.

c)      Place test specimen between 2 glass plates or acrylic plastic plates.

d)     Place test in incubator for 4 hors at 37^oc±2^oc under a pressure of 12.5 kpa (5kp/40cm²).

e)      Remove test from incubator hang to dry in warm air at maximum temperature at 60^oc.

f)       Assess the change in shade of fabric of the staining of the multifabric strip using light gray scales BS1066 AO2 & AO3

Perspiration Test:

Test name: AATCC15

 Alkaline condition

 Recipe:

• L-histadine monohydrochloride monohydrate =0.25 g/l
• Ammonium carbonate=4.00g/l
• sodium chloride= 10.00g/l
• Disodium hydrogen phosphate dehydrate=2.50 g/l
• Adjust p^H(by caustic soda)= 8

Procedure:

1)      Wet out test specimen and adjacent fabrics thoroughly in an alkaline perspiration solution in room temperature and liquor ratio 50:01 and leave for 30 min.

2)      Pour off excess solution without squeezing. Place test specimen between 2 glass plate or acrylic plastic plates.

3)      Place test specimen between 2 glass plates or acrylic plastic plates.

4)      Place test in incubator for 4 hors at 37^oc±2^oc under a pressure of 12.5 kpa (5kp/40cm²).

5)      Remove test from incubator hang to dry in warm air at maximum temperature at 60^oc.

6)      Assess the change in shade of fabric of the staining of the multifabric strip using light gray scales BS1066 AO2 & AO3

 Perspiration Test:

Test name: AATCC15

 Acidic condition

Recipe:

• L-histadine monohydrochloride monohydrate =0.25 g/l
• Lactic acid=85%
• sodium chloride= 10.00g/l
• Sodium hydrogen phosphate dehydrate=1.25 g/l
• Adjust p^H(by caustic soda)= 5.5

Procedure:

a)      Wet out test specimen and adjacent fabrics thoroughly in an alkaline perspiration solution in room temperature and liquor ratio 50:01 and leave for 30 min.

b)      Pour off excess solution without squeezing. Place test specimen between 2 glass plate or acrylic plastic plates.

c)      Place test specimen between 2 glass plates or acrylic plastic plates.

d)     Place test in incubator for 4 hors at 37^oc±2^oc under a pressure of 12.5 kpa (5kp/40cm²).

e)      Remove test from incubator hang to dry in warm air at maximum temperature at 60^oc.

f)       Assess the change in shade of fabric of the staining of the multifabric strip using light gray scales BS1066 AO2 & AO3

Color fastness to light:

Test name: BS1006 B 021978

Apparatus: Xenotest 450 or Atlas Ci 35 or Atlas Ci 4000

Light source: Xenon arc lamp

Procedure:

1)      Attach a specimen 10 mm wide into a test card using rust resistance stapes one or more samples may attached to the same card. Ensure all colors are mounted for exposure.

2)      Attach the appropriate wool standards sequentially on to a test card in the same manner 2-3-4.

3)      Place central 1/3 cover. AB over the specimens and wool stands and expos to the light source until wool standard, B exhibits a shade change equipment to gray scale 4.

4)Examine each specimen for fading where fading has occurred compare the shade change with the wool standards.

(a) If the degree of change is equivalent to standard 3, the rating is 3.

(b) If the degree of change is less than standard 3 but greater than standard the rating is 2-3.

(c) If the degree of change is equivalent to standard 2, the rating is 2.

(d) If the degree of change is less than standard2 but greater than standard the rating is 2.

5)      For those specimens that have not faded at this stage replace cover A-B with the 2/3 cover C-D continue expose to the light source until wool standard 4 exhibits a shade change equivalent to grey scale 4.

6)      Compare the specimens not previously rated as 3 or worse with wool standard 4.

a)      If the degree of change is worse than standard 4, the rating is 3-4.

b)      If the degree of change is equivalent to standard 4 the rating is 4,

c)      If the degree of change is better than standard 4, the rating is better than 4.

Color fastness to light:

Test name: AATCC 16A

Apparatus: Fade O meter

Light source: Carbor arc lamp

Procedure:

  Use of AATCC blue scale L2 to L9 expose the test specimen until the change in color corresponds to grade 4 (change of color) and then to grade 3 (e.g. L4). The light fastness grading corresponds to the number of the blue reference of the ATCC light fastness scale which shows a similar contrast to the test specimen and L is placed in front of the light fastness rating.

Pilling Test:

Test name: BS 3811

Apparatus: RTPT (Random Tumble Pilling Tester)

Regulation/min: 60 times

Total revolution: 1100 times

Assessments:

Assessment “change of color” the measurement change of color is carried out usually with the gray scale ISO AO2 the 5 stape gray scale consists of 5 pairs of gray swatches of cloth which illustrate the perceived color difference corresponding to fastness rating 5,4,3,2 & 1. The fastness rating is that number of the gray scale which has a perceived color difference  equal in magnitude to the perceived color difference between the original and the treated specimen (midway between two adjacent steps=intermediate rating e.g.2.3). The total color difference or contrast is the baris for assessment (hue, depth, brightness). If it is desired to record the character of the change in color the following qualitative terms can be used.

e.g;

-Loss in depth of color only.

 redder- no significant loss on depth but color redder.

 weaker, redder-Losses in depth and change in hue.

 weaker, redder, duller-Loss in depth and change in both hue and brightness.

Grey scale staining ISO AO3. This 5-steps or 9-steps grey scale consists of 5 pairs of swatches of grey and white cloth which illustrate the perceive color differences corresponding to the fastness ratings 5,4-5,4,3-4 etc. The fastness ratings is that number of the grey scale which has a perceived color difference equal in magnitude to the perceived color difference between the adjacent fabric and the tested adjacent fabric.

P^H identity of a fabric:

Test name: ISO 703071

Swatch cutting

Immerge in deionised water (distilled water)

Keep this condition for 2/1.5 hours

Check P^H by P^H paper

Shrinkage test:

Relax the fabric

Fabric spreading/alignment

Set the template for marking

Cut the fabric

Take the GSM

Make the garments

Wash the garments

Garments drying

Measurement the shrinkage percentage

Take the GSM

Name of the tests are taken in the testing side:

  Shrinkage test

  GSM test

  Perspiration test

  Rubbing/crock test

  Pilling test

  Washing test-Rota wash

  Drying

  Water fastness test

  Wash fastness test

  Light fastness test

Name of the tests/works are taken in the formulation side:

• Dye  test
• Water hardness test
• Seme bleach
• Dyeing(lab deep)
• Washing
• Recipe formulation
• Chemical testing

Raw materials for dyeing:

Raw materials used in the dyeing section are:

                     1. Grey fabrics

                     2. Dyes

                     3. Chemicals.

Grey fabrics:

Following types of gray fabrics are dyed:

• Single jersey
• Single jersey with lycra
• Polo pique
• Back Pique
• Single lacoste
• Double Lacoste
• Fleece
• Rib
• Rib with lycra
• 1Χ1 rib
• 2Χ2 rib
• Different types of collar & cuff.

 Different Types of Chemicals Used In Alim Knit With Their Brand Name:

CHEMICAL NAMEBRAND NAMECOUNTRY NAME  Wetting agent  Feloson NOFGermany Levelling agentA-41China Anti-creasing agentKapavon CLGermany Per Oxide Stabilizer   Kapazon H-53Germany CBB   Rucorit Wez CausticCausticChina Soda AshSoda AshChaina H₂O₂H₂O₂Chaina+Korea Optical Brightening AgentUvitex-BMASwitzerland Uvitex-BHV Uvitex-BBT Syno White    4BkKorea H₂O₂ KillerKapatex-PKSGermany Acitic AcidAcitic AcidIndia Sequestering AgentSecuron-540China CS Polyclean-SPIndia EnzymeBio-ACEChina Biopolish-B41Srilanka Electrolyte / SaltSodium Sulphate AnhydroseIndia   Glubar Salt DetergentRukozen-WBLGermany Diwet PIUSIndia Soaping AgentRukozen-NZAGermany Dekol ISNChina  Cyclonon XEW SoftenerNerosoft-JS(an-ionic)China Nerosoft-NI(non-ionic) Purrustol-IMAGermany Fixing AgentSandofix-ECGermany Protan FCE-375

 Machine Description:

For machine neutralization:

 Acetic acid                              = (As required) gm/L

Recipe for scouring and bleaching :( For cotton)

 Wetting agent (Feloson NOF)                                    =0.7 gm/l

Stabilizer (Kapazon H53)                                     =0.5 gm/l

Anti creasing agent (Kapavon-CL)                 =   1 gm/l

Caustic                                                                        = 2 %

Hydrogen per oxide (H2O2)                          =2.5 %

Sequestering agent (Securon-540)                  =0.5 %

Hydrogen per oxide killer (Kapatex-PKS)     =2.5 %

60 min at 105˚C

Recipe for hot (cotton black):

Wetting agent (Feloson NOF)                                    = 0.5gm/L

Sequestering agent (Securon-540)                              = 0.75 gm/L

Caustic                                                                        = 1 gm/L

      10 min at 80˚C

Recipe for enzyme treatment: :( For cotton)

Wetting agent (Feloson NOF)                          =0.1 gm/L

Acid (acetic acid)                                              = 1 gm/L

Enzyme (BIO Ace / Biopolish B-11 )   = 0.75 gm/L

50 min at 55˚C

Recipe for leveling :( For cotton)

Anti creasing agent (Kapavon-CL)             = 1gm/L

Levelling agent (A-41)                                = 0.5gm/L

      10 min at 60˚C

Recipe for softening:

Sapamine CWS (Anionic)                               = 1.5% (For color)

Nerosoft-NI (Non ionic)                                 = 1.5% (For white)

      10 min at 45˚C

Recipe for Reduction (Polyester):

Caustic                                                              = 2 gm/L

Hydross                                                             = 2.5 gm/L

      20 min at 90˚C

Sequence of Operation for Knit Dyeing:

Grey fabric received from knitting section

Batching

Fabric turning

Loading to the m/c

Select production programme

Pre-treatment (Scouring & Bleaching)

Select recipe for Dyeing

Recipe confirmed by DM/SPO

Dyeing

After treatment

Unload

Production Parameters:

1. P^H

      – During H₂O₂ bleaching P^H 9.2-12(Alkaline)

        – During reactive dyeing P^H 10.5-12.5(Alkaline)

      – During disperse dyeing P^H 4.5-6.0   (Acidic)

2. Temperature:

                  – For cotton scouring: 90⁰-95⁰C

                  – For cotton cold wash: 30⁰-40⁰C

                  – For cotton hot wash: 70⁰-80⁰C

                  – For cotton acid wash: 60⁰-70⁰C

                  – For cotton dyeing: 80-90⁰C (For hot brand)

                      60⁰C (For cold brand)

                  – Polyester dying: 100⁰-130⁰C

3. Time:

                  – For Scouring: 60-90 minutes

                  – For Disperses dyeing 60-90 minutes.

4. M: L ratio:

                  – For reactive dyeing M: 1 ratio maintained between 1:6 to 1:10.

  Process Flow Chart for Pretreatment

Scouring, Bleaching & Enzyme Treatment:

Level in     Nof + Stabilizer (60⁰C by injection)

Fabric Load Caustic Dosing (60⁰C X10 min)  H₂O₂ Dosing (70⁰C X10 min)

Temperature raise at 105⁰C

Run time 30 min

Drain

H₂O₂ Killer hot wash (80⁰C X10 min)

 Drain

  Acitic Acid (60⁰C X10 min)

 MIR Rinse (10 min)

 Acitic Acid (55⁰C injection)

  Check P^H-4.5

Enzyme Dossing (55⁰C X 5 min)

Run time 30 min

Drain

 Hot wash (90⁰C X10 min)

   Rinse (20 min)

Process Sequence of Dyeing ( for different types shade)

Flow Chart for OBA Treatment:

Level In (Water from PT)

   NOF + H53 new

 Fabric Load

Caustic Dosing 65⁰ ×10 min

Run 3 min

H₂0₂ Dosing 70⁰ ×10 min

OBA Dosing 78⁰ ×15 min  Run 60 min

 Drain (B.D)

 Level In (Water from PT)

Normal Hot 70⁰ × 5 min

 Drain (B.D)

 Acid 50⁰ × 10 min

Level In

 CS HOT 90⁰ × 5 min

 Drain

 Rinse 10 min

Acid

 Drain

 Rinse 3min

Flow Chart for CVC (blended fleece fabric) Dyeing:

Cotton part dyeing:

Level In (water from P.T)

Levelling agent injection

Salt dosing (10 min x 60˚C)

Run time 20 min

Color dosing (30 min x 60˚C)

Run time 20 min

Soda dosing (50 min x 60˚C)

Run time 10 min

Caustic dosing (30 min x 60˚C)

Check p^h

Sample check

Normal hot wash

Dyeing Sequence for Levafix Shade:

Level In

Leveling agent injection (40⁰ c)

Run 20 min

Salt dosing (40⁰ c 15 min)

Run 20 min

½ Soda dosing Linear (40⁰ c 30 min)

Run 20 min

Check p^h & Rains Temp at 60⁰

½ Soda dosing (70% Progressing) (60⁰ c 50 min)

Check p^h & Sample Check

MIR rising 10 min

Bath drop

Dyeing Sequence for migration:

Level In (Water from p.t at 60⁰ )

Check p^h

Leveling agent injection (60⁰ c)

Color dosing linear (60⁰ c x 35 min)

Run 20 min

Salt dosing (60⁰ c x 15 min)

Check P^H

Raise temp 80⁰C

Run 20 min

Down temp 60⁰C

Soda dosing (70% Progressing) (60⁰ c x 50 min)

Sample check

MIR rising 10 min

Bath drop

Dyeing Sequence for Turquoise Color:

Level In (Water from p.t at 80⁰C)

Check p^h

Leveling agent injection

Run 10 min

Color dosing linear (80⁰ c x 40 min)

Run 20 min

Salt dissolving (80⁰ c x 15 min)

Run 20⁰

Soda dosing (70% Progressing) (80⁰ c x 50 min)

Check p^h

Sample check

MIR rising 10 min

Bath drop

Dyeing Sequence for Black Shade:

Level In

Leveling agent injection

Run 10 min

Salt dosing (60⁰ c x 10 min)

Run 15 min

Color dosing linear (60⁰ c x 30 min)

Run 20 min

Soda dosing (70% Progressing) (80⁰ c x 50 min)

Check p^h

Sample check

MIR rising 10 min

Bath drop

Dyeing Sequence for 80⁰ C Isothermal:

Level In ( Water from p.t at 80⁰ )

Check p^h

Leveling agent injection

Run 10 min

Color dosing linear (80⁰ c x 35 min)

Run 20 min

Salt dosing (80⁰ c x 15 min)

Run 20 min

Soda dosing (70% Progressing) (60⁰ c x 50 min)

Check p^h

Sample check

MIR rising 10 min

Bath drop

Dyeing Sequence for 80 ⁰C Light Shade:

Level In (Water from p.t at 60⁰ )

Check p^h

Leveling agent injection

Run 10 min

Color dosing linear (60⁰ c x 35 min)

Run 20 min

Salt dissolving (60⁰ c x 15 min)

Run 20 min

Soda dosing (70% Progressing) (60⁰ c x 50 min)

Check p^h

Sample check

MIR rising 10 min

Bath drop

Dyeing Sequence for 80⁰ C Medium Shade :

Level In (Water from p.t at 60⁰  )

Check p^h

Leveling agent injection

Run 10 min

Salt dosing (60⁰ c x 10 min)

Run 20 min

Color dosing (60⁰ c x 30 min)

Run 20 min

Soda dosing (70% Progressing) (60⁰ c x 50 min)

Check p^h

Sample check

MIR rising 10 min

Bath drop

 Process Flow Chart for After treatment:

Acetic acid injection

(check ph 4.5-5)

Fixing agent(1g/l)dossing (45˚ x 10 min)

Run time 10 min

MIR Rinsing 10 min

Softener (1.5g/l) dossing (45˚C x 10 min)

Run time 10 min

MIR Rinsing 20 min

Unload

Some dyed fabric with recipe:

Color: Black.

Dyeing Polyester part

Vell W 3R – 0.24000%

Red W4BS – 0.2400%

Black BFE – 3.00%

Reduction cleaning

Hydrose-2 g/l

Caustic- 2 g/l

Dyeing Cotton part

VELL MF3RD-0.7282%

RED MF3BD-  0.3542%

RS BLACK WM- 5.6416%

Salt – 90 g/l

Soda – 5 g/l

Caustic-1.75 g/l

Nature of fabric: CVC Fleece

GSM: 280

M:L-1:6 Color: White.

BAM (OBA) – 0.90%

Caustic-2.5 g/l

H₂O₂   -10 g/l

Nature of fabric: S/J

GSM: 160

M:L-1:7

Color Type: Dark

Color: LT-NAVY

R.G. Yellow RGB – 0.2068%

R. UL. Car RGB – 0.3520%

R. Blue R.R       – 1.800%]

Salt – 60 g/l

Soda – 18 g/l

Nature of fabric: Fleece

GSM: 260

M:L-1:6 Color Type: Dark

Color: Mountain Lake

R. Yellow RR – 0.1540%

R. TURQG – 2.0370%

R. BLUE RR-2.6400%

Salt – 80 g/l

Soda- 20 g/l

Nature of fabric: S/J

GSM: 160

M:L-1:7 Color Type: Medium.

Color: Reef Blue.

M. BR. Yellow V-4GL – 0.0126%

M. BR. Turk VG   –  1.84%

Salt – 60 g/l

Soda – 16 g/l

Nature of fabric:100% Cotton S/J.

GSM: 160

M:L-1:7 Color Type: Dark

Color: Black Newyork 1102B.

R. G. Yellow RGB – 0.4959%

R. UT. Car RGB  – 0.131%

R. Deep Black RGB – 6.84%

Salt – 90 g/l,

Soda – 5 g/l

Nature of fabric:100% Cotton Fleece

GSM: 260

M:L-1:7

Some are parts:

Report on Alim Knit BD Ltd (Part 1)

Report on Alim Knit BD Ltd (Part 2)