PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT
The production department is responsible for converting inputs into outputs through the stages of production processes. The Production Manager is responsible for making sure that raw materials are provided and made into finished goods effectively. He or she must make sure that work is carried out smoothly, and must supervise procedures for making work more efficient and more enjoyable.
Preparation Of Total Seasonal Production Plan.
Garment manufacturing is the mass production of clothing. Manufacturing garments entails a lot of planning and consciousness of schedule. The coordination of contractors and their timeliness plays a large role in meeting deadlines for your production. In most cases the production of garments is very time sensitive in order to ship goods to stores and boutiques for the upcoming season. Having a late order can reflect poorly on your business–keep this in mind and add plenty of time in your schedule.
To create a production schedule, start from your end date and work backwards in order to determine a schedule that suits your needs. Give yourself a week or two of extra time to allow for any delays in the process.
Patterns and Markers
Pattern making, grading and markers are a crucial part in planning for production. Once markers of each style are based, you can easily calculate the yield of fabric needed for your production and in turn order your fabric.
Ordering Fabric
Order fabric based on the yields needed in order to meet your production needs. When planning your production schedule speak with your fabric supplier about the turn around for your fabric and any additional time needed for dying or washing your fabric.
Other Materials
Order other materials such as buttons, grommets and zippers prior to your production. These elements are often overlooked but crucial in the production of a garment.
Scheduling Contractors
Meet with your sewing contractor prior to the beginning of the time period you need your production completed. Create a contract with your sewing contractor stating sewing prices, turnaround time, and list what your contractor is responsible for providing and what you are responsible for. Make sure to have deadlines for all these elements.
Overseeing Production
Once production has begun, you should check on your items regularly to make sure everything is being produced up to your standards. The first item off the line should be given to you for approval, make sure this is stated in your contract. Be sure to immediately check your production thoroughly for any mistakes.
Finishing
Many sewing contractors also offer finishing services such as pressing, folding, tagging, and bagging items. If this is not the case, allot plenty of time for your finishing needs.
Considerations
It is commonly known that the garment industry is late with orders, while stores and boutiques expect their orders to be on time. Give yourself a cushion of a few days whenever possible in order to make sure your production is on schedule. Make sure to have a contract with your sewing contractors defining the finish dates and any penalties that apply for a late production.
Preparation Of Monthly Production Plan.
Significant Points:
Employment is expected to decline because of technological advances and imports of apparel and textiles from lower-wage countries.
Extensive on-the-job training is required to operate new high-technology machinery.
Production workers account for almost 2 out of 3 jobs.
About 1 out of 3 jobs are in three States—North Carolina, South Carolina, and Georgia.
Nature of the Industry |
This statement covers closely related industries: Textiles and apparel. The textile mills and products industry comprises establishments that produce yarn, thread, and fabric and a wide variety of other textile products for use by individuals and businesses, but not including apparel. Some of the items made in this industry include household items, such as carpets and rugs; towels, curtains, and sheets; cord and twine; furniture and automotive upholstery; and industrial belts and fire hoses. Because the process of converting raw fibers into finished nonapparel textile products is complex, most textile mills specialize.
Textile mills take natural and synthetic fibers, such as cotton and polyester and transform them into yarn, thread, or webbing. Yarns are strands of fibers in a form ready for weaving, knitting, or otherwise intertwining to form a textile fabric. They form the basis for most textile production and commonly are made of cotton, wool, or a synthetic fiber such as polyester. Yarns also can be made of thin strips of plastic, paper, or metal. To produce spun yarn, natural fibers such as cotton and wool must first be processed to remove impurities and give products the desired texture and durability, as well as other characteristics. After this initial cleaning stage, the fibers are spun into yarn.
Fabric and textile products are mostly produced by means of weaving, knitting, or tufting. Workers in weaving mills use complex, automated looms to transform yarns into cloth, a process that has been known for centuries. Looms weave or interlace two yarns, so they cross each other at right angles to form fabric. Knitting uses automated sewing machines to interlock a series of loops of one or more yarns to form goods, such as sweaters, socks, and underwear. Tufting, used by carpeting and rug mills, is a process by which a cluster of soft yarns is drawn through a backing fabric.
At any time during the production process, a number of processes, called finishing, may be performed on the fabric. These processes, which include dyeing, bleaching, and stonewashing, among others, may be performed by the textile mill or at a separate finishing mill. Finishing encompasses chemical or mechanical treatments performed on fiber, yarn, or fabric to improve appearance, texture, or performance.
The apparel manufacturing industry transforms fabrics produced by textile manufacturers into clothing and accessories that fill the Nation?s retail stores. By cutting and sewing fabrics or other materials, such as leather, rubberized fabrics, plastics, and furs, workers in this industry help to keep consumers warm, dry, and in style.
The apparel industry traditionally has consisted mostly of production workers who performed the cutting and sewing functions in an assembly line. This industry remains labor-intensive, despite advances in technology and workplace practices. Although many workers still perform this work in the United States, the industry increasingly contracts out its production work to foreign suppliers to take advantage of lower labor costs in other countries. In its place, a growing number of apparel manufacturers are performing only the entrepreneurial functions involved in apparel manufacturing such as buying raw materials, designing clothes and accessories and preparing samples, arranging for the production and distribution of the apparel, and marketing the finished product.
Many of the remaining production workers work in teams. For example, sewing machine operators are organized into production ?modules.? Each operator in a module is trained to perform nearly all of the functions required to assemble a garment. Each module is responsible for its own performance, and individuals usually receive compensation based on the team?s performance
Industry segment | Establishments | Employment |
Total | 100.0 | 100.0 |
Textile mills | 18.3 | 34.1 |
Fiber, yarn, and thread mills | 2.2 | 7.7 |
Fabric mills | 7.0 | 16.5 |
Textile and fabric finishing and fabric coating mills | 9.1 | 9.9 |
Textile product mills | 31.8 | 25.3 |
Textile furnishings mills | 12.3 | 14.5 |
Other textile product mills | 19.5 | 10.8 |
Apparel manufacturing | 49.9 | 40.8 |
Apparel knitting mills | 2.7 | 6.0 |
Cut and sew apparel manufacturing | 43.7 | 31.6 |
Apparel accessories and other apparel manufacturing | 3.5 | 3.2 |
Most apparel and textile production is concentrated in large mills. In fact, establishments employing 20 persons or more accounted for 87 percent of all apparel and textile workers .
Machine Layout On The Basis Of Orders.
Line – 9, color –grey, buyer –JC Penny, product – jacket hood.
01. | Single Needle Lock Stitch |
02. | Single Needle Chain Stitch |
03. | Two Needle Lock Stitch |
04. | Two Needle Chain Stitch |
05. | Vertical Trimmer |
06. | 5 Thread Over Lock |
07. | 4 Thread Over Lock |
08. | 3 Thread Over Lock |
09. | Bartake Machine |
10. | Button Hole |
11. | Button Stitch |
12. | Kanchai Special |
13. | Flat Lock Flat Bed |
14. | Feed of the Arm |
15. | Snap Button |
16. | Cutting Machine |
17. | Band Knife |
18. | Fusing Machine |
19. | Eyelet Hole |
Work Study Or Industrial Engineering Procedure.
Industrial engineering is also known as operations management, management, management science, systems engineering, or manufacturing engineering, usually depending on the viewpoint or motives of the user. Recruiters or educational establishments use the names to differentiate themselves from others. In healthcare, for example, industrial engineers are more commonly known as management engineers or health systems engineers. The term “industrial” in industrial engineering can be misleading. While the term originally applied to manufacturing, it has grown to encompass virtually all other industries and services as well. The various topics of concern to industrial engineers include management science, financial engineering, engineering management, supply chain management, process engineering, operations research, systems engineering, ergonomics, value engineering and quality engineering.
Objectives of IE:
To sells or business target of the company.
To spread production planning information.
To set target and submit balance report within schedule time.
Major Parts of IE in Garments Industry:
Analysis Procedure
Operation Procedure
Workers Assessment
Analysis Procedure:
Basic
Semi Critical
Critical
Basic Analysis:
Operator Training Analysis
Pre-Production Meeting Analysis
Semi Critical Analysis:
SMV Analysis
Pre-Define Motion Time Analysis
Target Setting Analysis
Operator Breaks Down Analysis
Thread Consumption Analysis
Critical Analysis:
Costing Analysis
Feasibility Analysis
Operator Training Analysis: Analysis teams will analysis Operator’s training.
Pre-Production Meeting Analysis: Analysis team will call pre-production meeting before bulk production and they will analysis pre-production meeting.
SMV Analysis: The sum of standard time of sewing process and helping process express in term of minute unit is called Standard Minute Value (SMV). Analysis team will analyze SMV of CM for costing.
Pre-Define Motion Time Analysis: Analysis team will do pre-define motion time analysis.
Target Setting Analysis: Analysis team will analyze target setting. Setting line target depends on following terms:
o SMV
o Manpower Operator and Helper
o Targeted Efficiency
Let, for any garments given SMV = 12.25
Total Manpower = 28 Operators + 25 Helpers = 53 Persons
Let us consider the line Efficiency = 100%
Then total outcome = 53 x 60
12.25
= 260 pieces per hour
But actual line Efficiency = 80%
Then outcome of this line = 53 x 80
12.25
= 208 pieces per hour.
Line Productivity Calculation:
Line productivity = target per hour x SMV x 100%
(Manpower x 60) – Non productivity time
= 208 x 12.25 x 100
(53 x 60) – 0
= 80%
If a line contains 53 manpower and target given per hour 200 then,
Line productivity = target per hour x SMV x 100%
(Manpower x 60) – Non productivity time
= 200 x 12.25 x 100
(53 x 60) – 0
= 77%
Again, manpower decrease 53 to 45 and line target remain same as 200 then,
Line productivity = target per hour x SMV x 100%
(Manpower x 60) – Non productivity time
= 208 x 12.25 x 100
(45 x 60) – 0
= 90%
Peak Target: IE department gives peak target at afternoon for the next day. Generally, 50% target for the first day 100% for the next day for Basic Items, 33 % target for 1st day, 66% target for 2nd day and 100% target for 3rd day for semi critical items, 25 % target for 1st day, 50% target for 2nd day 75% target for 3rd day and 100% target for 4th day for critical items.
Operator Breaks Down Analysis: IE department will analysis operator break down.
Sewing information: IE department advise sewing process to worker which is easy to keep in memory and the rate of production increase as well as efficient and precise. The information of sewing is known as generalized sewing data(GSD).
Definition of GSD: This is the special type of technique of sewing operation.
Braches of GSD:
a. Method analysis
b. Setting standard time
Method analysis:
Accept the best process among various types of process which is suitable as well as consume least time.
The purpose of a method study:
Analyze method of work
Gain insight how work is performed.
Documents methods of works or detect potential for improvement.
Enable planning by providing data.
Disable possible hazard and dangers to safety.
Hourly Production Report.
Sewing machine operators assemble or finish clothes. Most sewing functions are specialized and require the operator to receive specific training. Although operators specialize in one function, the trend toward cross-training requires them to broaden their skills. Team assemblers perform all of the assembly tasks assigned to their team, rotating through the different tasks, rather than specializing in a single task. They also may decide how the work is to be assigned and how tasks are to be performed.
Pressers receive a garment after it has been assembled. Pressers eliminate wrinkles and give shape to finished products. Most pressers use specially formed, foot-controlled pressing machines to perform their duties. Some pressing machines now have the steam and pressure controlled by computers. Inspectors, testers, sorters, samplers, and weighers inspect the finished product to ensure consistency and quality.
Table 2. Employment of wage and salary workers in textile, textile product, and apparel manufacturing by occupation, 2004 and projected change, 2004-14 (Employment in thousands) | ||||
Occupation | Employment, 2004 | Percent change, | ||
Number | Percent | |||
Total, all occupations | 701 | 100 | -45.8 | |
Management, business, and financial occupations | 34 | 4.8 | -36.9 | |
Top executives | 12 | 1.7 | -36.8 | |
Industrial production managers | 5 | 0.8 | -36.5 | |
Professional and related occupations | 17 | 2.5 | -38.0 | |
Designers | 8 | 1.1 | -43.8 | |
Sales and related occupations | 21 | 2.9 | -38.7 | |
Retail salespersons | 5 | 0.7 | -39.1 | |
Sales representatives, wholesale and manufacturing | 12 | 1.7 | -37.4 | |
Office and administrative support occupations | 76 | 10.8 | -43.5 | |
First-line supervisors/managers of office and administrative support workers | 4 | 0.6 | -42.3 | |
Bookkeeping, accounting, and auditing clerks | 7 | 1.0 | -43.4 | |
Customer service representatives | 6 | 0.9 | -34.9 | |
Shipping, receiving, and traffic clerks | 15 | 2.2 | -44.3 | |
Stock clerks and order fillers | 6 | 0.9 | -49.6 | |
Office clerks, general | 11 | 1.6 | -42.3 | |
Installation, maintenance, and repair occupations | 33 | 4.8 | -36.1 | |
Industrial machinery mechanics | 12 | 1.7 | -37.4 | |
Maintenance and repair workers, general | 11 | 1.5 | -36.4 | |
Production occupations | 450 | 64.2 | -49.5 | |
First-line supervisors/managers of production and operating workers | 26 | 3.7 | -36.0 | |
Team assemblers | 17 | 2.4 | -26.4 | |
Pressers, textile, garment, and related materials | 9 | 1.3 | -53.9 | |
Sewing machine operators | 159 | 22.7 | -57.6 | |
Sewers, hand | 6 | 0.9 | -48.1 | |
Tailors, dressmakers, and custom sewers | 4 | 0.6 | -54.9 | |
Textile bleaching and dyeing machine operators and tenders | 19 | 2.7 | -51.9 | |
Textile cutting machine setters, operators, and tenders | 15 | 2.2 | -47.2 | |
Textile knitting and weaving machine setters, operators, and tenders | 42 | 6.0 | -59.4 | |
Textile winding, twisting, and drawing out machine setters, operators, and tenders | 46 | 6.6 | -49.9 | |
Extruding and forming machine setters, operators, and tenders, synthetic and glass fibers | 7 | 1.0 | -45.5 | |
Fabric and apparel patternmakers | 5 | 0.8 | -52.6 | |
Textile, apparel, and furnishings workers, all other | 9 | 1.3 | -53.6 | |
Cutters and trimmers, hand | 6 | 0.8 | -32.7 | |
Inspectors, testers, sorters, samplers, and weighers | 26 | 3.7 | -40.6 | |
Packaging and filling machine operators and tenders | 7 | 1.0 | -36.4 | |
Helpers–Production workers | 16 | 2.2 | -33.9 | |
Transportation and material moving occupations | 60 | 8.6 | -37.2 | |
Industrial truck and tractor operators | 10 | 1.4 | -28.8 | |
Laborers and freight, stock, and material movers, hand | 19 | 2.7 | -42.3 | |
Packers and packagers, hand | 19 | 2.7 | -34.1 | |
Note: May not add to totals due to omission of occupations with small employment |
As the textile industry becomes increasingly automated, production workers need to be prepared. A high school diploma or GED may be necessary for many entry-level positions, and extensive postsecondary training is required for more technical jobs. This training may be obtained at technical schools and community colleges. More often, job applicants are screened through the use of tests, to ensure that they have the necessary skills. Most apparel production workers are trained on the job. Although a high school diploma is not required, some employers prefer it. Basic math and computer skills are important for computer-controlled machine operators.
Daily Production Report.
Earnings in selected occupations in textile and apparel manufacturing appear in table 3. Traditionally, sewing machine operators are paid on a piecework basis determined by the quantity of goods they produce. Many companies are changing to incentive systems based on group performance that consider both the quantity and the quality of the goods produced. A few companies pay production workers a salary.
Table 3. Median hourly earnings of the largest occupations in textile, textile product, and apparel manufacturing, May 2004 | ||||
Occupation | Textile mills | Textile | Apparel | All industries |
First-line supervisors/managers of production and operating workers | $19.35 | $18.49 | $15.23 | $21.51 |
Textile knitting and weaving machine setters, operators, and tenders | 11.91 | 11.77 | 9.68 | 11.48 |
Inspectors, testers, sorters, samplers, and weighers | 10.87 | 10.50 | 8.62 | 13.66 |
Textile bleaching and dyeing machine operators and tenders | 10.80 | 10.59 | 9.82 | 10.56 |
Textile winding, twisting, and drawing out machine setters, operators, and tenders | 10.54 | 11.74 | 9.55 | 10.87 |
Team assemblers | 10.40 | 11.45 | 9.07 | 11.42 |
Laborers and freight, stock, and material movers, hand | 10.09 | 9.22 | 8.60 | 9.67 |
Helpers–Production workers | 9.83 | 9.30 | 8.00 | 9.70 |
Sewing machine operators | 9.35 | 9.08 | 8.08 | 8.61 |
Packers and packagers, hand | 9.30 | 8.55 | 8.46 | 8.25 |
Monthly Production Report.
“We continue to see inflation, though at a reduced rate [compared] to earlier months.” (Chemical Products)
“Slight slowdown in overall business in both domestic and international markets, although still above 2010 at the same time.” (Electrical Equipment, Appliances & Components)
“The earthquake and related issues in Japan have caused shortages of some automotive equipment, negatively impacting global automotive production.” (Fabricated Metal Products)
“Sales continue to be stronger than expected across both retail and industrial channels. Material costs are definitely rising and will force increases to end-use customers.” (Paper Products)
“High commodity prices continue to be worrisome.” (Food, Beverage & Tobacco Products)
“Business is still up and down, with no real upside potential for us until the housing market rebounds.” (Furniture & Related Products)
“Customers are still being cautious with their buying. Certain plastics and metal prices continue to rise.” (Machinery)
MANUFACTURING AT A GLANCE | ||||||
Index | Series | Series | Percentage | Direction | Rate |
|
PMI | 55.3 | 53.5 | +1.8 | Growing | Faster | 23 |
New Orders | 51.6 | 51.0 | +0.6 | Growing | Faster | 24 |
Production | 54.5 | 54.0 | +0.5 | Growing | Faster | 25 |
Employment | 59.9 | 58.2 | +1.7 | Growing | Faster | 21 |
Supplier Deliveries | 56.3 | 55.7 | +0.6 | Slowing | Faster | 25 |
Inventories | 54.1 | 48.7 | +5.4 | Growing | From Contracting | 1 |
Customers’ Inventories | 47.0 | 39.5 | +7.5 | Too Low | Slower | 27 |
Prices | 68.0 | 76.5 | -8.5 | Increasing | Slower | 24 |
Backlog of Orders | 49.0 | 50.5 | -1.5 | Contracting | From Growing | 1 |
Exports | 53.5 | 55.0 | -1.5 | Growing | Slower | 24 |
Imports | 51.0 | 54.5 | -3.5 | Growing | Slower | 22 |
OVERALL ECONOMY | Growing | Faster | 25 | |||
Manufacturing Sector | Growing | Faster | 23 |
*Number of months moving in current direction.
Average commitment lead time for Capital Expenditures decreased 1 day to 103 days. Average lead time for Production Materials decreased 7 days to 54 days. Average lead time for Maintenance, Repair and Operating (MRO) Supplies decreased 4 days to 24 days.
Percent Reporting | |||||||
Capital Expenditures | Hand- |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Jun 2011 | 30 | 10 | 13 | 13 | 24 | 10 | 103 |
May 2011 | 30 | 9 | 11 | 16 | 24 | 10 | 104 |
Apr 2011 | 28 | 6 | 16 | 16 | 23 | 11 | 108 |
Mar 2011 | 27 | 12 | 11 | 16 | 23 | 11 | 107 |
Production Materials | Hand- |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Jun 2011 | 19 | 37 | 25 | 12 | 5 | 2 | 54 |
May 2011 | 15 | 36 | 28 | 12 | 6 | 3 | 61 |
Apr 2011 | 15 | 36 | 27 | 15 | 4 | 3 | 59 |
Mar 2011 | 17 | 38 | 27 | 13 | 3 | 2 | 53 |
MRO Supplies | Hand- |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Jun 2011 | 44 | 43 | 10 | 3 | 0 | 0 | 24 |
May 2011 | 46 | 37 | 13 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 28 |
Apr 2011 | 44 | 43 | 12 | 1 | 0 | 0 | 23 |
Mar 2011 | 48 | 39 | 11 | 2 | 0 | 0 | 23 |
About this Report
The data presented herein is obtained from a survey of manufacturing supply managers based on information they have collected within their respective organizations. ISM makes no representation, other than that stated within this release, regarding the individual company data collection procedures. Use of the data is in the public domain and should be compared to all other economic data sources when used in decision-making.
Data and Method of Presentation:
The Manufacturing ISM Report On Business® is based on data compiled from purchasing and supply executives nationwide. Membership of the Manufacturing Business Survey Committee is diversified by NAICS, based on each industry’s contribution to gross domestic product (GDP). Manufacturing Business Survey Committee responses are divided into the following NAICS code categories: Food, Beverage & Tobacco Products; Textile Mills; Apparel, Leather & Allied Products; Wood Products; Paper Products; Printing & Related Support Activities; Petroleum & Coal Products; Chemical Products; Plastics & Rubber Products; Nonmetallic Mineral Products; Primary Metals; Fabricated Metal Products; Machinery; Computer & Electronic Products; Electrical Equipment, Appliances & Components; Transportation Equipment; Furniture & Related Products; and Miscellaneous Manufacturing (products such as medical equipment and supplies, jewelry, sporting goods, toys and office supplies).
Quality Management Procedure.
Quality control is a process by which entities review the quality of all factors involved in production. This approach places an emphasis on three aspects. Quality control emphasizes testing of products to uncover defects, and reporting to management who make the decision to allow or deny the release, whereas quality assurance attempts to improve and stabilize production, and associated processes, to avoid, or at least minimize, issues that led to the defects in the first place.
Elements such as controls, job management, defined and well managed processes, performance and integrity criteria, and identification of records
Competence, such as knowledge, skills, experience, and qualifications
Soft elements, such as personnel integrity, confidence, organizational culture, motivation, team spirit, and quality relationships.
The quality of the outputs is at risk if any of these three aspects is deficient in any way.
Apparel Quality Management
There are a number of factors on which quality fitness of Apparel industry is based such as – performance, reliability, durability, visual and perceived quality of the garment. Quality needs to be defined in terms of a particular frame¬work of cost. The national regulatory quality certification and international quality programmes like ISO 9000 series lay down the broad quality parameters based on which companies maintain the export quality in the garment and apparel industry. Here some of main fabric properties that are taken into consideration for garment manufacturing for export basis:
Overall look of the garment.
Right formation of the garment.
Feel and fall of the garment.
Physical properties.
Colour fastness of the garment.
Finishing properties of apparels
Presentation of the final produced garment.
Apparel Quality Management for Apparel Exporters
For a garment exporter or apparel exporter there are many strategies and rules that are required to be followed to achieve good business. The fabric quality, product quality, delivery, price, packaging and presentation are some of the many aspects that need to be taken care of in garment export business. Some rules that are advisable for garment exporters are listed below:
Quality has to be taken care by the exporter, excuses are not entertained in international market for negligence for low quality garments, new or existing exporters for both it is mandatory to use design, technology and quality as major upgradation tools.
Apart from superior quality of the garment, its pricing, packaging, delivery, etc has to be also taken care of.
The garment shown in the catalogue should match with the final garment delivered.
It is important to perform according to the promises given to the buyer, or else it creates very bad impression and results in loss of business and reputation.
In international market, quality reassurance is required at every point.
Proper documentation and high standard labels on the garment are also important aspects as these things also create good impression.
Timely delivery of garments is as important as its quality.
If your competitor has the better quality of garment in same pricing, it is better to also enhance your garment quality.
Before entering into international market, garment exporters have to carefully frame out the quality standards, or else if anything goes wrong it could harm the organization. And after that strictly follow it.
The garment quality should match the samples shown during taking the orders.
The garment exporters should know to negotiate a premium price after quality assurance is done.
Quality is a multi-dimensional aspect. There are many aspects of quality based on which the garment exporters are supposed to work.
Quality of the production.
Quality of the design of the garment.
Purchasing functions’ quality should also be maintained.
Quality of final inspection should be superior.
Quality of the sales has to be also maintained.
Quality of marketing of the final product is also important as the quality of the garment itself.
Management Of Outside QC From Buyers.
The method by which quality management of any garments is controlled called Quality Management System. Quality Management System is a set of inter related techniques, measures and management system designed to prevent defects from occurring or if they occur at all, counter measures are adopted immediately so that they do not reoccur. QMS takes preventive and remedial measures.
Fabrics Layout Procedure.
Total procedure of cutting section:
Fabrics Cutting & Management Procedure.
Fabric Quality System
We follow 4.0 point system for fabric inspection. Simultaneously we also go rigorous 100% fabric checking for all kind of fabrics.
Inspections are done to identify following flaws
Knitting/Weaving defects
Printing/dyeing defects
Needle Run/Dye Streaks
Skewing/Bowing
Holes/Needle Chew
Color Variation/Center Selvage
Various other defects are also detailed in report. All fabric lots are inspected & Color continuity card is prepared for every lot.
All our fabric has to go through the tests listed below in our in-house laboratory | |
Shrinkages Fabric Weight Color Fastness Crocking (Dry/Wet) | v Dimensional stability. v Torque v Ph Test. |
Trims
We at Sabs do 100% inspection of trim before issuing it to production. All trims such as labels, Twill tape, Ribbons, Laces, Patches, Buttons undergoes lab testing. Twill tapes, Woven trims & Elastic are all pre shrunk.
Cutting
Cutting is the heart of garment industry. We follow defined procedure in cutting from fabric issue to cutting storage. Our aim is to have class of cutting & with minimal defect, by following all said norms & agreed quality standards at each individual process. We have dedicated Cutting QA, who assures cutting quality at each & every process. QA monitors following guide lines for each process to ensure correct cutting. Fabric is relaxed prior to cutting
Cad markers are checked for ratio & grain direction.
Hard Patterns are checked for grading and specs.
Layering & spreading is monitored to avoid stretched or relaxed lay.
Every lot is separated by inserting fabric strip & every roll is separated by reversing last lay of the roll.
Every individual component is numbered to ensure no mixing up of sizes or shades is being done.
Plaids, stripes are matched as per the requirement of buyer.
All small components are cut on band knife machines to ensure proper shapes are maintained.
Every bundle has barcode so that it can be tracked.
Sewing
Sewing is the multiple operation based process, here the different components are assembled to form complete product. The main objective of sewing is to give scrupulous look to the garment. Every individual style undergoes through R & D, to ensure correct attachments & folders are provided to achieve best productivity with desired quality standards. R & D makes time study of each & every style & based on time study assembly line plan is made. Each line is monitored by roving quality checker, who supports the line with technical assistance. Every single operation is monitored by roving checker & report is generated for the same. All end line checkers do a 100% check of garments and prepare it’s report. All roving and end line checkers are monitored by sewing QA supervisor.
Needle Policy
We have strong needle policy to control broken needle fragments. Needles are only issued to operator who returns all broken parts. If any part is missing than he has to get the semi stitched garment to get checked with hand metal detector for missing needle fragment. Needles are replaced on regular basis to avoid needle holes. Needle logs are maintained.
Finishing Section
Objective of finishing is to give aesthetic look to the garments, hence finishing is called the brain of garment industry. Finishing is the most momentous division where in the raw products move rapidly from various stages to redefine it. Each & every stage in finishing has its role to play in to give the product its desired look. Presentation of the finished products itself tell about the product quality. To ensure garments are defect free, 100% garments are checked by passing through initial checking & final checking.
Garments are checked for | |
|
|
Production Meeting In Factory.
Pre production meeting is the meeting before starting the bulk production of garments. In pre-production meeting we can see Factory Manager, Quality Assurance Manager, Planning Manager, I.E Manager, Production Manager, Sample Department, Finishing Manager, Cutting Manager, Maintenance Manager, Printing Manager, Embroidery Manager, Store Manager, Q.C Executive all the concern person of the department present who are involved for bulk production.
Q.C check
Measurement
Print.
Thread matching.
Fabric fault.
Embroidery.
Fabrics Inspection Procedure.
Fabric Quality System
We follow 4.0 point system for fabric inspection. Simultaneously we also go rigorous 100% fabric checking for all kind of fabrics.
Inspections are done to identify following flaws
Knitting/Weaving defects
Printing/dyeing defects
Needle Run/Dye Streaks
Skewing/Bowing
Holes/Needle Chew
Color Variation/Center Selvage
Lab Dip Preparation Procedure.
Submission of lab dip:
For fixing color standard lab dip plays a vital role in this case. So for lab dip test submission is much necessary. When a buyer give the order then the merchandiser make a lab dip report by the dyeing department. When the lab dip report is complete then the merchandiser sending this report to the buyer. Finally buyer accept this lab dip then merchandiser sending this lab dip to the dyeing department then dyeing is started.
Knitting Planning & Machine Wise Daily Production.
Flow Chart of Knitting Procedure
Collect approved Sample and sample parameter
↓
Analyze the work order, M/C and Yarn Selection
↓
Source the Yarn as per requirement
↓
M/C Cam design as per requirement
↓
Collect Yarn from Store
↓
Cone setting the creel
↓
Yarn feeding the tensioned guide and positive feeder
↓
Check the stitch length and GSM
↓
Inspection the fabric after making approximately ½
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If fabric is OK then continuously run but not OK then find out the problem and solved it.
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Cut the fabric roll and marking stitch length, GSM, Count etc. (20-25 kg)
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Send the inspection section and inspected the fabric and grading according to the point
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Then send to the grey store
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Fabric delivery according to the dyeing batch card from grey store
Dia Selection On The Basis Of Count & Construction.
More Uses Yarn Count in NASSA GROUP:
Carded- 18, 20, 24, 26, 30, 32, 34, 36 Ne.
Combed- 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40 Ne.
Rotor- 7, 10, 12, 14, 16 Ne.
Polyester- 75, 100, 150 Denier.
Lycra- 20, 30, 40, 50, 70 Denier.
Dying Procedure Step By Step.
Inustriction :
step 1: fold and tie your garment
Fold and/or tie the fabric into the desired patterns. For more defined patterns wet the shirt and squeeze or spin out excess water before folding. We have several books and DVDs with great pattern ideas!
step 2: soak garments in soda ash solution
Wear your dust mask & gloves! Use – 1 cup (8 oz.) of Soda Ash Fixer per gallon of warm water. A gallon will soak 10-12 adult XL tees – so way more kids tees, fewer dresses, etc.
Soak the tied garments about 5-15 minutes. Squeeze out the garment so it is damp but not dripping. You can reuse solution until gone.
step 3: mix your dyes
Wear your dust mask & gloves! Measure urea and warm water into a container, an old pitcher works well. Use the chart below for amounts. Paste up your dye with the urea water (see below), then add rest of water and stir ‘till thoroughly dissolved. Pour into squeeze bottles with a funnel. An already wet, tied up adult tee will absorb about 4 oz of liquid dye, depending on how much you apply. Use this as a guide to help you decide how much to mix up. Check the name of each color on the label of the jar, some colors need more dye, they are marked with an * or ** by the name.
step 4: squirt on your dye
Apply dye with squeeze bottles, paint brushes, sponges, etc., as many colors as you want. (see below for tips).
step 5: let it rest
Put tied fabric in a plastic bag (you want to keep it damp). Let it cure for at least 4 hours but preferably 24 hours for the brightest colors. In temperatures below 70º F, it takes longer.
step 6: wash it out
Pre-fill your washing machine with hot water and 1/4 cup Synthrapol or Professional Textile Detergent. Rinse the tie-dyes thoroughly before putting in the machine. Leaving ties on, rinse under cold running water (faucet, hose or shower), to stop the dye reaction. Next rinse in warm water while you untie the folds, keep rinsing until water runs fairly clear. Throw in machine as soon as it is rinsed, running it through a full cycle.Don’t wash more than the equivilant of about 8 adult size t-shirts at a time or the water gets too muddy. You can use Milsoft professional fabric softener in the final rinse to make your tie-dyes super soft!.
Helfule Hints:
Any natural fiber is great for tie-dye: cotton, rayon, hemp, linen, ramie etc. If you can’t find 100% natural shirts a 90% cotton and 10% polyester or lycra is ok, but avoid 50/50 blends (come out very pale).
When tie-dyeing silk or wool or other protein fibers, keep in mind that Fiber Reactive colors shift on these fibers, and you cannot get a true black. Soda Ash is also very hard on these fabrics, so use half as much, and don’t cure for more than 4-6 hours, or use the vinegar / microwave method instead of using Soda Ash.
It is always good to pre-wash your fabric and garments; fabric softeners and other finishes can prevent the dye from absorbing into the fiber.
Cover your work surfaces with old newspapers or folded paper towels to absorb extra dye. Elevating the garment of the table is great to, we like old cookie cooling racks for this. Be sure to wear old clothes, dye will stain!
Make sure you get everything covered with dye. After applying dye to one side, flip garment over and repeat the process. Inject the tip of the squeeze bottle into the folds for best dye penetration and less white on the final product.
the dye spreads and to create sharper edges.
Got a leaky Squirt bottle? A couple wraps of white Teflon plumber’s tape around the threads solves this problem perfectly. It is cheap and available at any hardware store. No tie-dyer should be without it!
In step 4 any method keeping the fabric wet is OK, needn’t be a plastic bag — cover many with plastic drop cloth, wrap in plastic wrap, etc. The warmer the temperature where you lay out your tie-dyes to cure, the quicker the chemical reaction.
Use Water Softener if you suspect you have “hard” water
DON’T USE HOT WATER.
The dyes work best in lukewarm water (105 degrees). #250- Jet Black does like hot water (140 degrees)and does NOT do well for tie-dye (unless you cure your tie-dyes under an electric blanket!).
Urea helps dye to dissolve, so dissolve the Urea in the water first. Add this water to the dye powder gradually and paste it up to avoid lumps. Undissolved dye makes “explosions” of color or “freckles”, so if a color is difficult to dissolve, straining through some light fabric might be necessary. Coffee filters only work if the dye is really liquid. Otherwise, they filter out too much of the dye
If you have trouble making a paste of the colors, a little Calsolene Oil can help because it breaks the surface tension.
With this dye, there is always lots of “excess dye” to be washed out. Don’t crowd your washing machine with too much tie-dye or the water gets too muddy and so will your tie-dyes. A key to clear, brilliant tie-dyes is the rinse and washout procedure – don’t skimp!
Delicate items like rayon are better hand washed or should go into a mesh bag on a gentle cycle so the agitation doesn’t shred them.
List Of The Machines In GMTS, Knitting Dyeing Factory, Printing & Embroidery Factory.
Classification of Knitting:
Knit basically two types.
1. Warp Knitting
2. Weft Knitting
Knitting Section of Radiance group Group
Yarn Store
Circular Knitting
Flat/V-bed Knitting
Inspection
Dyeing Machine List
Name of machineries | Machine Brand | Number of machineries | |
Dyeing machine | Fongs’s | 11 pcs | |
Rope opening & Slitting machine | Seville | 1 pcs | |
De-watering & De- twisting machine | Corino | 1 pcs | |
Compactor machine | 1. open type | FERRARO | 1 pcs |
2. Tube type | FAB-CON | 1 pcs | |
Stenter machine | Seville | 1 pcs | |
Tensionless Dryer | LK & LH | 1 pcs | |
ETP | SIMEM | 1 unit |
Classification of knit machine:
Flat/V-Bed Knitting M/C
Circular Knitting M/C
Flat Knit Machines
Sl. No. | M/C Brand | Gauge | Space in inch | No. of M/C | Capacity/ Day | Remarks |
1 | Kaou Heng | 14 | 54 | 4 set | 1400 set | All M/C are computerized |
Circular Knitting Machines List
Sl. No. | M/C DIA in inch | Gauge | Feeder | Brand | Origin | M/C type | No. of M/C | Remarks |
1 | 30 | 24 | 90 | Pailung | Taiwan | Single Jersey | 2 | Full feeder lycra attachment |
2 | 32 | 24 | 96 | 1 | ||||
3 | 34 | 24 | 102 | 1 | ||||
4 | 36 | 24 | 108 | 1 | ||||
5 | 38 | 24 | 114 | 1 | ||||
6 | 40 | 24 | 120 | 1 | ||||
7 | 42 | 24 | 126 | 1 | ||||
8 | 30 | 18/24 | 60 | Rib inter lock | 1 | |||
9 | 32 | 18/24 | 64 | 1 | ||||
10 | 34 | 18/24 | 72 | 1 | ||||
11 | 38 | 18/24 | 76 | 1 |
Kinds of print:
Pigment print
Rubber print
High density print
Discharge print
plasticol
Metallic print
Glitter print
Puff print
Foil print
Some important note in print department:
Print table-32
Print machine-8 (made by America (M&R)
Cover dryer-8 machine
Heat press machine-8 made by America(M&R)
Inspection/ Quality table-6(print check aria)
Color room-2
Color store room-2
Expose machine-2
Sample section-1
Sample print table-4
Maintain process sequence:
Risk analysis sheet check
Print /embroidery stride check
attern check(measurement/placement )
Print grading check
Print shade as per strike off
Print position as per required
Wash test result acceptable
Print hand fill as per strike .
Print fault:
Missing
Wrong
Wrongly placed
Missing elasticity
Color wrong
Wrong size
Hand fill not correct
Migration problem
Cover up defect
Not properly attached
Stain/dirty mark
Uneven
Air bubble
Air holes
Supervision Procedure In Production Department.
Supervisor of cutting:
Trial cut supervisor.
Layer /cutting procedure
Bundling /snickering
Print and embroidery supervisor
Reporting System In Production Department.
Monthly production report.
Daily production report
Weekly production report.
Yearly production report.
Receiving, Requisition & Inventory Management Procedure In Production Department.
There should be a preventive maintenance scheduled program.
Effective maintenance is also important to get maximum utilization of machinery.
In flat knitting department the quality inspection machine is not working. That should be repaired.
Keeping high quality is not only the responsibility of quality department, but it should be embedded in each employees mind. Every employee should take it as personal responsibility.
There is only one hydro machine in dyeing; it must be two .So the lot loaded on trolleys doesn’t have to wait for long time.
There should be clearly written standard about the demand of buyers’ requirements about the production.
Quality measures should be clearly defined, written and hang on the departmental walls.
Raw material should be properly stored, because they’re hazardous if stored in knitting department.
Common error of fluff, which is only due to the non-cleanliness of the production floor. And due to which a lot of quality problems are occurring which increase both the time and cost
Compliance Maintaining Procedure Among Workers In Floor.
The Nassa Group maintain procedure among workers in floor.
Working Training Procedure.
Worker training procedure:-
HIV
Labor low
Compliance
Comical safety
Fire fitting
Machine Safety Procedure.
Hand gloves.
Eye guard.
Finger protects guar.
Fire fighting
Fire hazard.